Arty, Organic Dubai?

Embracing contradictions in a city better known for fast cars and bling.

I have lived in Dubai for 2 years now. In that time, I have officially seen the Burj Khalifa and Dubai Mall once. I have done two whole beach days.

Instead, I have spent most of my weekends in arty coffee shops, buying organic vegetables at a farmers market, attending cultural talks and working on this newsletter, surrounded by other artists and their creations.

I am fascinated by my experience in this city - where I see flowers and kittens appearing out of the passageways on the sides of the roads.

The main story is skyscrapers but my main experience has been much closer to the ground.

In these tomatoes there are stories. Of desert agriculture. Ingenious irrigation systems.

I love that even Dubai - which seems so overtly one thing - can also be its opposite.

There is something reassuring about that contradiction.

Even these organic tomatoes - grown in the Emirati desert - have a defiant counter-mainstream story to tell.

Yes, the desert can be creative and abundant too.

Some of the colourful discoveries in the craft stores and market.

As I wander, I stop to get a coffee and, unlike most days in Dubai, I talk to strangers. One girl is sitting at a coffee shop, reading the same book I am listening to on my headphones - about taking action on your dreams. So, we tell each other our dreams.

“I want to find an agent and publisher for my novel,” I tell her. (And, talking of taking action on my dreams, I am telling you now too).

I love this tray I see in a small shop. So I ask the store assistant if I could fit it in an already full suitcase. This question becomes a conversation about transitions and belonging. She tells me about her journey to make Dubai home.

“You can live a normal life here”, she says, “it’s not all Lamborghinis and parties.”

I don’t know about you, but these days, I am drawn to places that make my nervous system feel calm.

I want to be surrounded by soft stories of everyday beauty. Reassurance of people crafting their own ways in life, designing with creativity, not commercialism.

All photos in this piece were taken by me.

The thing about contradictions that I most love, is that I am one. Too often superficial stories win. Assumptions drawn from quickly skimming the world.

When I was working here - I was a Director of Events - and people, when they heard my job title - transformed into motivational speakers before my eyes. Pitching themselves and their products, hoping I would hire them.

Now, I am searching for a job - I often find myself surrounded by givers-of- advice-I-didn’t-ask-for. The assumption that without a job or title, I must be in immediate need of help.

I am, of course, both. You find me somewhere in-between. The confident and the working-it-out, the well-travelled and the girl from Glasgow, the adventurer and the seeker of home.

Dubai, like anywhere, holds its own complex stories. And there's something magical — and quietly reassuring — about a city learning to tell the story of its contradictions. It reminds me, we can all do the same.

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Friends,

How are you this week? I hope you enjoyed wandering in Dubai. This is not an area of the city I knew about before I lived here and it is one I most enjoy spending time.

I will add links in the comments to places I visited - in case you want to explore the designs online.

• Is there somewhere you go in the place that you live, that helps you feel creative or connected?

• And, tell us about your contradictions. I would love to know.

Happy wandering,

Catriona

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Other news

• I shared some resources for giving to the Myanmar earthquake relief, in case you are looking for trusted places to donate:

• I am almost done scrapbooking all the fantastic submissions I received on Hope - I look forward to sharing that with you next week. It has been an interesting topic to unpack and I have gained some new insights and resilience from diving into hope in more depth. A reminder of the original piece:

Scrapbooking Hope